January Wine + Cheese Pairing
Appenzeller and 2022 Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Steinsetz Kamptal
Switzerland is a country known for its cheese. The small country produces over 750 varieties of cheese and their cow to person population reflects that: there are five cows for every one person. If you visit the Eastern region of Switzerland in May you just might find a procession of decorated brown dairy cows climbing the rolling hills in search of the wholesome, rich herbal meadows found between Lake Constance and the Säntis mountain range. These herbal meadows are the foundation for one of the most recognized alp cheeses, Appenzeller. The raw, robust milk that goes into Appenzeller comes from cows that graze in the lush meadows of the region, dining on the freshest new spring growth of grass, wildflowers, and herbs.
There are only around 50 dairies that produce Appenzeller using traditional artisan methods dating back 700 years. The strictly limited production area guarantees the unique nature of this flavorsome specialty cheese: Appenzeller cheese can only be produced in the cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Ausserrhoden and in parts of the St. Gallen and Thurgau cantons in line with the traditional recipe. Cheesemakers wash each wheel with a secret herbal brine. The recipe for the herbal brine is a closely guarded secret, but we do know the brine is made with an herbal mixture of 25 different herbs, roots, leaves, petals, seeds, bark, and yeast from local wines. Many of these same herbs and blossoms also feed the cows who make the milk. The liquid brine is then frequently rubbed on the surface of the cheese along the rind during the aging process, which eventually permeates throughout the cheese.
Appenzeller is noted for its nutty flavor combined with an herbal spiciness and is a perfect balance between mild and aromatic. The Silver Label is regularly washed with the secret herbal brine during its maturing process of at least three months. Weighing 15 to 20 pounds, the wheels are taken to storage cellars soon after being made.
Appenzeller cheese boasts a straw-colored appearance, adorned with tiny holes and a lustrous rind. It is characterized by a strong aroma, and it offers a nutty, sometimes fruity taste. The Silver Label is mildly spicy or tangy. “Appenzeller is totally snackable and beautifully meltable,” says Hannah Howard, cheese expert and author. Appenzeller Silver Label has earned its place among the top 20 cheeses at the 2024 World Championship Cheese Contest.
We suggest pairing the Appenzeller with Schloss Gobelsburg’s 2022 Ried Steinsetz Kamtal Grüner Veltliner. Fun to say and delightfully easy to drink, this quaffable Grüner Veltliner is fresh and has a mineral grip. Round and dense on the palate, this is a medium to full-bodied lush, and elegant wine. The intense white fruit and concentrated lemon notes will work well with the herbal tanginess of the Appenzeller. The bright, clear, and spicy bouquet of this Grüner Veltliner will enhance the spicy qualities of the cheese.
It makes sense to pair this centuries-old style of cheese with a wine from Schloss Gobelsburg. A Cistercian monastic estate, they are one of the oldest wineries in the Austrian Danube area with a documented history that dates back to 1171. All the vineyards are located on slopes and terraces around the valley of the river Kamp near the town of Langenlois and the village of Gobelsburg. Schloss Gobelsburg specializes in Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, they produce authentic and noble wines from different single vineyard, village, and regional appellations. This Grüner Veltliner comes from Ried Steinsetz, a single vineyard in the village of Gobelsburg, very close to the winery. This is a cooler site and produces wines that have more snap. Schloss Gobelsburg firmly believes that making exceptional wines begins with the earth the vines are grown in. Their website describes terroir as “the interaction between soil, rock, microclimate, and the experience of generations.” They believe that “just as wind and sun leave their imprint on the face of every farmer, authentic wine is a mirror of the soil, the rain, the sun, and the wind that made it ripen.” Rather than the loess-based soils that Grüner Veltliner is typically grown in, Steinsetz is alluvial gravel with smooth, rounded river stones that would be at home in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Once the grapes have been hand-harvested, they are 100% naturally fermented in large Manhatsberg (Austrian local oak from the Kamptal) oak casks and left to mature for ten months before bottling. The oldest part of the cellar dates back to the castle facilities of the 11th century and over the years, the cellar has been continuously expanded. When Moosbrugger and Bründlmayer took over the winery in 1996, the cellar was already well-equipped with modern technologies. In recent times, many large international cellars have focused on producing uniform wines that cater to standardized tastes; Moosbrugger is convinced that the future of wineries like Schloss Gobelsburg lies in individuality and character. To obtain the uniformity others are looking for, a high level of technology is necessary. Moosbrugger believes that a great level of individuality can only be achieved through the reduction of intervention. This is why at Gobelsburg, their plans do not revolve around the question of which machines can still be added to the cellar, but instead which machines can be done without. Moosbrugger developed the ‘Dynamic Cellar Concept’ for the winery with the key idea being to have flexible cellar operation where – to put it simplistically – wines are no longer pumped from one location to the other, but instead transported in ‘barrels on wheels’ from one section of the cellar to the other.
Their dedication to making exceptional wines carries on to the type of barrels they use to mature their wines. Every barrel helps to shape the character of the wine within, which is why, for centuries, timber from Manhartsberg (a region north of Langenlois) has been used for the large and small oak casks in their cellars. Naturally, this wood has a different character profile than oak from Allier or America. But it’s the regional character that forms the authentic personality of the Schloss Gobelsburg wines, which they believe comes from a symbiosis between the trees that are grown under the same climatic conditions as the grapes of the later wines. It’s easy to see the intense devotion that goes into making their wines. Over centuries, generations of wine and cheesemakers have created a tradition of excellence, and we’re happy to share that with you today.
Grab a wedge of Appenzeller and a bottle of Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner and share in a traditional wine and cheesemaking experience. This lively wine and cheese pairing would love to be served alongside your favorite vegetable dishes. Try them with your fondue, quiche, or highlight them with your next cheese board.
Resources:
https://www.cheeseconnoisseur.com/the-cheese-with-a-secret-appenzeller-cheese/
https://www.gobelsburg.at/en/
