October Wine + Cheese Pairing
Comté and Domaine Remi Jobard 2022 Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Vieilles Vignes'
Comté is an iconic cheese. It’s been made in more or less the same way for a thousand years and counting. It’s a cheese that’s hard not to love—creamy, roasty, nutty, complex, and versatile.
Comté is a raw milk cheese, which gives it a rich, distinctive flavor, it also means that the subtle notes in the milk from grass and hay are more apparent. As with other aged cheeses, each wheel of cheese tells us a story about the past: About the pastures where the cows grazed, about the season, about the cheese-maker’s skills, and about the cheese cellar where the cheese has been aged. The Montbéliarde and Simmental cows, whose milk makes Comté, have plenty of room to graze on the grasses and wildflowers growing on the picturesque hills of Jura. In the winter their diet changes to dried hay from the same pastures they’re grazing in the summer. This leads to cheeses made from winter milk having a lighter yellow color than summer cheeses, where the natural coloring of the grass gives a darker yellow hue. Today, it is still an AOP requirement that milk comes from several different farms. The milk cannot be transported more than 25 km / 15 miles to preserve its quality, and the cheese must be made within 24 hours of milking.
There are three separate groups responsible for creating Comté: the dairy farmers who care for the brick red and white Montbéliarde cows, the cheesemakers or fruitières who turn that milk into cheese, and the affineurs who age the cheese to perfection. The system is truly cooperative; no company completes the whole process from start to finish. The production of Comté follows a time-honored tradition, handed down through generations in the Jura Mountains of France. The process begins with collecting fresh cow's milk, which is unpasteurized to preserve the natural flavors and qualities of the milk. The milk is then poured into large copper vats and gently heated. Vegetal rennet is added to coagulate the milk, forming curds. The curds are cut into small pieces and stirred to release whey. The whey is drained, and the curds are shaped into large wheels and placed in molds. The wheels are pressed to remove excess moisture and shaped into their final form. After pressing, the wheels are bathed in brine to enhance their flavor and promote the development of a natural rind. They are then placed in aging cellars, carefully monitored, and turned regularly to ensure even aging. The aging process allows the cheese to develop its distinctive flavor and texture.
Jean-Louis Carbonnier of the Comté Cheese Association says, “Each wheel of Comté has its own texture and set of aromas. In general, the texture of Comté is firm but silky, and distinctive from other pressed cooked cheeses.”
While Comté and its cheesemaking process is deeply rooted in tradition, the makers are continually looking ahead to the future. Innovation is intimately linked to preserving and fostering traditional practices based on solidarity and respect for this cheese’s land.
You’ll find Comté wheels aged anywhere between 4 and 36 months. Younger Comté will be pale yellow in color with a supple texture and a fresh, milky taste with hints of grass and hay. Similar to butter and cream, younger Comté is great for melting or cooking. Aged Comté has a denser, firmer texture and a more complex flavor profile with nutty, smoky, fruity, and sweet notes. Older Comtés are great for snacking. Extremely versatile in the kitchen; Comté melts gorgeously and lends a rich, complex flavor to a wide variety of dishes and can be used to help bind sauces and give them body. It’s perfectly melted in a fondue, baked into a gratin, or stirred into a cheese souffle. Use it in frittatas, quiches, macaroni and cheese, paninis, polenta, shaved or diced in salads, and of course great on its own or on a charcuterie board.
We suggest pairing our 18-month Comté with Domaine Remi Jobard 2022 Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Vieilles Vignes'. Fruity and floral aromas lead to a rich and bright palate which pairs perfectly with the nutty and complex Comté. Domaine Remi Jobard 2022 Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Vieilles Vignes' is 100% Chardonnay from Burgundy. Nestled below the village of Meursault. Domaine Remi Jobard produces seven Meursault cuvees, three of which are 1er Cru. Whatever doesn't go into those cuvees is declassified into this stunning Bourgogne Blanc. This means you are getting flagship Meursault fruit ($150 - $200 per bottle) at a fraction of the price ($54). The vines that produce this wine are all at least forty years old, producing a stunning wine with plenty of minerality backed up by citrus peel, green apple, and a bit of stone fruit. It is rare to find a Vieille Vignes (old vine) Bourgogne Blanc, You will be captivated by its classic Meursault profile of pear, lemon zest, green apple, white peach, orange oil, and white flower. A hint of roasted nut and chalk provide a bit of weight and texture. The wine is absolutely delicious and certified organic! Given its terroir, quality, and structure, you can enjoy this Meursault now and over the next decade.
Sources:
https://cheesetalks.com/the-story-behind-comte/
https://www.cheeseconnoisseur.com/a-cheese-of-history-and-community/
